Key Features: Col de Voza (1,653m), Bionnassay Glacier views, Bionnay village

Cultural Notes: Ancient Roman path sections, Notre Dame de la Gorge chapel

The classic TMB begins with a climb from Les Houches (1,010m) either via cable car or a steep ascent through pine forests to Col de Voza. This high point rewards with your first spectacular views of the Mont Blanc massif and Chamonix Valley. Descending through alpine meadows and hamlets, you'll cross the suspension bridge over the torrential Bionnassay stream with the glacier visible upstream. The trail continues through forests and pastureland to the charming village of Bionnay.

The final section follows an ancient Roman path alongside the mountain stream of Bon Nant, culminating at the Notre Dame de la Gorge chapel, a 17th-century pilgrimage site worth exploring. From here, it's a gentle walk into Les Contamines-Montjoie, a traditional Savoyard village offering accommodations ranging from guesthouses to hotels. Water is plentiful throughout this stage, with several mountain streams and fountains in villages. Les Contamines offers full resupply options with several grocery stores and pharmacies.

Key Features: Col du Bonhomme (2,329m), Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,483m), Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme

Cultural Notes: Ancient Roman trade route, summer grazing traditions

Leaving Les Contamines, the trail follows the valley floor briefly before climbing steadily through forests to alpine pastures. At Chalet du Balme (1,706m), a seasonal refreshment stop, the landscape transforms as you enter the Montjoie Nature Reserve. The path steepens considerably as you approach Col du Bonhomme, often with lingering snowfields until early July. Weather can change rapidly here; this exposed section demands proper equipment and caution.

Continue climbing to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, the day's highest point with panoramic views of Mont Pourri and the Vanoise massif. The historic Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme stands at this pass, offering a welcome rest stop. The descent into Les Chapieux traverses open mountainsides with abundant alpine flora (gentians, edelweiss) and potential marmot and chamois sightings.

Les Chapieux, a small hamlet in the Vallée des Glaciers, offers limited but adequate accommodation at Refuge Les Mottets or Auberge de la Nova. Water sources diminish after leaving the valley, so carry sufficient supplies until reaching the refuge at Col de la Croix. This challenging stage offers profound solitude in its higher sections and showcases the dramatic transition from valley floors to high alpine environments.

Key Features: Col de la Seigne (2,516m), France-Italy border crossing, Val Veny, Mont Blanc's southern face

Cultural Notes: Historic border region, Italian mountain culture introduction

This compelling stage crosses from France into Italy via the historic Col de la Seigne. From Les Chapieux, follow the valley road briefly before tackling the steady climb to the border pass. The ascent offers increasingly dramatic views of glaciated peaks. At Col de la Seigne, pause to appreciate the magnificent panorama - the southern side of the Mont Blanc massif with its imposing glaciers unfolds before you, while behind lies the Vanoise National Park.

Descending into Italy's Val Veny, the character of the landscape shifts noticeably. The trail follows the lateral moraine of the Miage Glacier, Italy's largest, with its distinctive debris cover. The route passes Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini (2,195m), an excellent rest stop with stunning glacier views, before continuing down the valley past abandoned alps (summer farms).

The final stretch offers two options: the standard route through pine forests to Courmayeur, or the high variant via Mont Favre and Col Chécrouit with superior views. Both converge for the final descent to Courmayeur (1,224m), a sophisticated Italian mountain town with full services. Water sources are reliable at refuges and mountain streams until mid-valley. Courmayeur provides comprehensive resupply opportunities, excellent cuisine, and accommodation ranges from hostels to luxury hotels - worth considering a rest day here.

Key Features: Val Ferret, Mont de la Saxe ridge, spectacular Mont Blanc southern face views

Cultural Notes: Traditional Italian mountain architecture, alpine farming practices

A shorter but spectacular stage that reveals the Mont Blanc massif from its most impressive angle. From Courmayeur, climb steadily through pine forests to the hamlet of Villair, then continue ascending to reach the balcony trail along Mont de la Saxe. This elevated traverse provides uninterrupted views of Mont Blanc's Italian face - a dramatic wall of rock, ice and hanging glaciers. The panorama includes iconic peaks like Grandes Jorasses, Dent du Géant, and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey.

The undulating trail follows a high traverse, passing through flower-rich alpine meadows and scattered larch forests. Wildlife opportunities abound, with ibex often seen on the rocky slopes above. Approximately halfway, Rifugio Bertone offers refreshments and a scenic terrace for enjoying the views.

The trail continues to Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025m), named after the legendary Italian mountaineer. This exceptional mountain refuge combines modern ecological design with traditional hospitality. The outdoor terraces provide front-row seats to the sunset alpenglow on Mont Blanc's glaciers. Water is available at both refuges, but limited between them. The rifugio offers dormitory accommodation and excellent Italian mountain cuisine. Advance booking is essential during peak season. This shorter stage allows time to savor the extraordinary mountain scenery and recuperate before the challenging day ahead.

Key Features: Grand Col Ferret (2,537m), Italy-Switzerland border crossing, Swiss Val Ferret

Cultural Notes: Linguistic transition (Italian to Swiss French), traditional Alpine agriculture

From Rifugio Bonatti, continue along the breathtaking balcony trail through Italian Val Ferret, maintaining your privileged viewpoint of Mont Blanc's spectacular southern aspect. The path gradually descends to the valley floor, passing through alpine meadows where dairy cattle graze during summer months. At Arnuva (1,769m), the final Italian hamlet, refreshments are available before the substantial climb to Grand Col Ferret.

The ascent to the pass traverses open alpine terrain with views extending back to the Grand Jorasses. The Grand Col Ferret marks the Italy-Switzerland border and a distinct landscape transition. The descent into Swiss Val Ferret reveals a more managed alpine environment with manicured pastures and traditional chalets. The first Swiss hamlet, La Peule (2,071m), features a working alpage (dairy farm) where cheese production can be observed, and refreshments are available.

Continuing through gentle Swiss meadowlands flanked by pine forests, the trail passes several small settlements before reaching La Fouly (1,600m), a charming Swiss mountain village. The cultural shift becomes apparent through architectural styles, language, and meticulous Swiss organization. La Fouly offers various accommodation options from the centrally located Hotel Edelweiss to smaller pensions. Water sources are plentiful throughout this stage. La Fouly provides basic resupply options at its small market, though selection is limited and prices reflect remote Swiss mountain economics.

Key Features: Traditional Swiss villages, River Dranse valley, Alpine forest trails, Champex-Lac

Cultural Notes: Traditional Valais architecture, Swiss pastoral lifestyle

This relatively gentle stage offers a cultural immersion into traditional Swiss mountain life. From La Fouly, the trail descends gradually through the upper Val Ferret alongside the young River Dranse. Unlike the dramatic high passes of previous days, today's route meanders through a sequence of well-preserved Alpine villages - Ferret, La Seiloz, and Praz de Fort - each showcasing traditional Valais architecture with timber chalets featuring distinctive stone-slab foundations and decorative balconies.

The trail frequently crosses flower-filled meadows where farmers harvest hay using traditional methods. Between villages, the path enters fragrant pine and larch forests, providing welcome shade. After Praz de Fort, the route diverts from the valley floor, climbing moderately through forest to the idyllic lakeside village of Champex-Lac (1,470m).

This postcard-perfect settlement sits beside a natural alpine lake, often called "Little Canada" due to its resemblance to Canadian mountain scenery. The lake's clear waters reflect surrounding peaks and forests. Champex offers excellent facilities, including hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, and a well-stocked supermarket for comprehensive resupply. The Alpine Botanical Garden (Flore-Alpe) contains over 4,000 mountain plant species and merits a visit. Water sources are plentiful throughout this stage. This easier day provides an opportunity to recover before tackling the challenging Fenêtre d'Arpette variant or standard Bovine route tomorrow.

Key Features: Alp Bovine, Mont Blanc views return, Trient Glacier glimpses

Cultural Notes: Swiss mountain farming traditions, alpine habitat conservation

From Champex-Lac, the main route follows a forest trail climbing steadily to the working farm at Alp Bovine (1,987m). This picturesque mountain pasture has been used for summer grazing for centuries, and its rustic café offers local cheese and refreshments. The trail traverses open meadows with expansive views back toward the Swiss Alps and forward to the Mont Blanc massif, which returns dramatically to view.

[Note: The alternative high route via Fenêtre d'Arpette (2,665m) is significantly more challenging with exposed sections and should only be attempted in good weather by experienced hikers.]

From Alp Bovine, the trail descends through larch forests to the Col de la Forclaz (1,527m), a historic mountain pass connecting the Rhône Valley with Chamonix. The final segment descends briefly before a short climb to the small village of Trient (1,300m), nestled beneath the distinctive pink spire of its church. The impressive Trient Glacier can be glimpsed hanging in the valley above.

Accommodation in Trient is limited to the Auberge du Mont Blanc and La Grande Ourse refuge, making advance booking essential. Both offer dormitory-style accommodation with half-board options featuring hearty Swiss cuisine. Water sources are reliable, with fountains in all villages and natural sources on the Bovine section. Trient has a small shop for basic supplies, but comprehensive resupply should be done in Champex. The village's position deep in its valley means early sunsets and spectacular alpenglow on surrounding peaks.

Key Features: Col de Balme (2,191m), Switzerland-France border crossing, Mont Blanc panorama, Aiguilles Rouges

Cultural Notes: Return to French alpine culture, cross-border history

Leaving Trient, a sustained forest climb leads to the alpine meadows below Col de Balme. The trail steepens for the final ascent to this significant pass marking the Swiss-French border. The stone refuge at the col (open seasonally) provides refreshments and a panoramic terrace. Here, the full Mont Blanc massif reveals itself once again, with the Chamonix valley visible below.

The descent into France offers two options: the direct route to Le Tour, or the recommended variant via the Aiguillette des Posettes (2,201m), which provides superior views of the Mont Blanc range, the Aiguilles Rouges, and the Chamonix valley. This ridgeline traverse requires minimal additional climbing and delivers some of the trek's most spectacular vistas.

The trail eventually descends through alpine meadows and scattered forests to Tré-le-Champ, then continues to Argentière (1,250m), a vibrant mountain town with the dramatic backdrop of the Argentière glacier. The cultural transition back to France is evident in architecture, cuisine, and language. Argentière offers various accommodation options from luxury hotels to budget gîtes. The town has excellent amenities, including outdoor equipment shops, pharmacies, ATMs, and supermarkets for comprehensive resupply. Water sources are available at the Col de Balme refuge and in valleys, but can be limited along the Posettes ridge section.

Key Features: Cheserys Lakes, stunning Mont Blanc reflections, Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve

Cultural Notes: Alpine habitat conservation, mountaineering history

This shorter stage climbs into the Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve, providing some of the trek's most spectacular Mont Blanc views. From Argentière, follow the valley briefly before ascending steadily through pine forests to Montagne de la Pendant. The trail emerges above treeline into the protected environment of the Aiguilles Rouges, characterized by unique alpine flora and fauna adapted to the crystalline rock terrain.

The highlight of this stage is the sequence of Cheserys Lakes (Lacs des Chéserys), a collection of small alpine tarns perfectly positioned to reflect Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks. These lakes, set in a rocky granite landscape dotted with alpine flowers, provide exceptional photography opportunities, especially in early morning or evening light.

The trail continues with minimal elevation change to Refuge La Flégère (1,877m), dramatically positioned on the mountainside with sweeping views across to the Mont Blanc massif. The cable car station nearby operates seasonally, connecting to Chamonix (useful for those needing to resupply or access additional services).

The refuge offers dormitory accommodations and serves excellent mountain meals, but advance booking is essential during peak season. Water sources become limited after leaving the valley floor, so carry sufficient supplies. This shorter day provides opportunities for side explorations of the Aiguilles Rouges environment or simply enjoying the magnificent mountain panorama from the refuge terrace. Wildlife sightings commonly include marmots, chamois, and various alpine bird species including the majestic golden eagle.

Key Features: Grand Balcon Sud, Lac Blanc option, Col du Brévent (2,368m), Brévent summit (2,525m)

Cultural Notes: Chamonix mountaineering heritage, Alpine tourism development

The final stage delivers a fitting grand finale along the famous Grand Balcon Sud, a magnificent high traverse facing the Mont Blanc massif. From La Flégère, the trail climbs gently, with an optional detour to Lac Blanc (2,352m) - perhaps the most photographed location in the region, where the still waters create perfect reflections of Mont Blanc, the Aiguilles de Chamonix, and surrounding peaks.

Rejoining the main trail, continue southward with consistent panoramic views toward Col du Brévent. This high section traverses rocky terrain with some sections equipped with cables for security. Strong hikers should consider the short detour to the Brévent summit, offering a 360° panorama including Mont Blanc, the Aiguilles Rouges, Lake Geneva, and the Swiss Alps.

The long descent to Les Houches traverses various alpine environments - from rocky ridges through dwarf pine zones to mixed forest. The descent passes Refuge de Bellachat, the final mountain hut, before continuing through increasingly dense forest. Emerging at Les Houches completes the circuit, returning to your starting point with a profound appreciation for the Alpine world you've circumnavigated.

Les Houches offers numerous accommodation options and comprehensive services. Water sources are available at refuges but can be limited along ridge sections, so carry adequate supplies. This challenging final day encompasses much of what makes the TMB special - dramatic high mountain trails, exceptional views, varied terrain, and the satisfaction of completing one of the world's premier long-distance hiking routes.