Jennifer’s First Big Trail: The West Highland Way

Jennifer’s First Big Trail: The West Highland Way

Back in 2020, Jennifer took on her first long-distance hike: the West Highland Way. Over 10 days she walked from Milngavie (just outside Glasgow) to Fort William, wild camping, staying in bothies, and filming as she went. We talk about the challenge of carrying a heavy pack, the joy of trail friendships, magical wild camp spots, and the unforgettable Scottish landscapes that opened up in front of her — plus the lessons she learned as a first-timer and why the WHW still feels special.

What is the West Highland Way?

“It’s a 96-mile (154 km) route through the Scottish Highlands from Milngavie to Fort William. Most people take a week to 10 days. You get everything from waterfalls on green slopes to rocky lochside terrain — it’s magical.”

How long did it take — and what’s the start like?

“I took 10 days. A couple of those were very short — 3–4 miles — more like active rest days. Starting in town is exciting: you step through the Milngavie gateway, leave the shops behind, and within minutes you’re on woodland paths with the first views opening up. It feels like a curtain pulling back on the Highlands.”

A first “this is it” moment

“Midway through day one, the trail left the shade and the view opened right up. You can see where you’re headed — the little valley you’ll walk into — and it clicks: I’m really in the Highlands now. There were Highland cows wandering nearby; I sat for a picnic and just soaked it in.”

When did you hike — and how were the midges?

“July — very hot and, amazingly, midges weren’t bad except one day near Kinlochleven. I used a bog myrtle repellent; maybe that helped, maybe I was lucky, and the breeze likely kept them off.”

Planning as a first-timer

“I kept it simple: start, finish, rough sense of the terrain, and YouTube research. I wild camped most nights, mixed with designated campsites and two bothies. I didn’t pre-book, just stayed flexible. I knew it could be solitary and vast, so I wasn’t naive about the risks — but the freedom to pitch where it felt right was part of the appeal.”

What the videos don’t prepare you for

“You can’t gauge how tough the terrain feels until you’re on it. The classic example is the Devil’s Staircase(between Glencoe and Kinlochleven). So many false summits! I wasn’t filming — I was too busy breathingand wondering why I could taste iron. Reaching the top, I called my mum: ‘You won’t believe what I’ve just done!’”

Pack weight and what you’d ditch

“I didn’t weigh it, but I’d guess 17–18 kg. On the flat you don’t notice it; on climbs you feel every gram. I’d packed too many tops and socks ‘just in case’. I brought a notebook too — lovely, but not essential. My trick became ‘eat the bag lighter’ — snacks are weight!”

A wild camp you’ll never forget

“The night before Bridge of Orchy, beside a river near the area where Robert the Bruce’s longsword was supposedly lost. The sunset was a gradient of pink, purple, orange, gold. I camped with two hikers I’d met — Martin and Dave. We sat in our tent doorways chatting until dark with the river’s white noise in the background. A little pocket of Scotland.”

Trail community (and a perfect bothy night)

“The WHW has a lovely community. I walked solo, but for 3–4 days I fell in with others at a similar pace. My favourite night was at Rowchoish Bothy on Loch Lomond — hidden in coniferous forest with mossy carpets and glimpses of the loch through the trees. People shared a wind-up radio, someone passed around single-malt; it was just easy, generous trail company.”

Filming while you hike

“Filming actually helps me notice more. I shot this one on my phone — quick scenes, then I put it away and looked with my own eyes. Watching footage later brings back everything around the clip — the smells, the air, the side moments you’d forget otherwise.”

One image that sums up the WHW

“After the Devil’s Staircase, heading towards Kinlochleven after rain, the sun hit the slopes and every waterfall lit up. The green was unreal — Highland green in full sun. No camera really captures it.”

A tiny detail that stayed with you

“That pine woodland near Loch Lomond. Golden light slanting through Scots pines onto thick moss; the ground a soft rust of fallen needles. The warm day pulled out the smells — resin, earth, the start of decay in the mulch. It’s my favourite smell ever. If I could bottle it, I would.”

Advice for your own WHW

  • Give yourself time. Add a buffer day so you can linger — at a pub, a bothy, or a perfect wild-camp spot.

  • Stay flexible. Being able to change plans on the day is part of the magic.

  • Pack lighter than you think. Two hiking outfits are enough; dry things out when you can.

  • Expect variety. Lochside rocks, woodland roots, high passes — it’s dynamic.

  • Community is a feature. If you want solitude, choose other trails; the WHW is friendly.

If you can only do one Scottish trail… should it be this?

“It depends. The WHW is popular (you’ll meet people), dynamic, and properly adventurous — a brilliant first long trail. If you crave solitude, something like the Cape Wrath Trail is wilder. Many people link WHW + Great Glen Way for a longer journey — also a great shout.”

What the WHW gives you

“A real sense of journey — grounded among ancient Highland peaks, humbled by the scale, lifted by the people you meet. It’s never the same twice.”

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