In 2012 Wales became the first country in the world to open a continuous waymarked path around its entire coast. Eight hundred and seventy miles from Chepstow to Chester, taking in Pembrokeshire's sea cliffs, the Llŷn Peninsula, Anglesey's beaches, and the Dee estuary. It changed how the country walks itself.
Inland, three national parks — Eryri (Snowdonia), the Brecon Beacons, and Pembrokeshire Coast — hold most of Wales's serious mountain walking. The Cambrian Way crosses the country north to south along the spine of it. Offa's Dyke follows the English border for 177 miles. And Glyndŵr's Way loops through the mid-Wales hills that most visitors never see.
Everywhere you walk, place names are in Welsh — Cymraeg, the oldest living language in Britain. Learning to say a few is part of the trip. So is the food: laverbread, cockles, Welsh Black beef, and cheese from farmhouses in the Preseli hills.